Vol. 78 Eesett & Co.

Many brands have started to show their latest collection these days. Without any mention, I am huge fan of clothing that I could spend all day just to window shop here in the center of Tokyo because there is so much to offer when it comes to that. It seems to me that marketing-wise, most of brands here in Japan have a closed exhibition that you would be invited only if you are travelling all over the world to find a best garment in this universe.

As a brand, just because it would be a little overwhelming to invite anyone that has a interest in brand, what defines us to differentiate from being a buyer with being just a customer? It’s just a business that money would definitely be involved when these half-business and half-fashionista-minded people get together and no brainer that it must be really good for both parties (half business and half fashionista-minded would be a little too absurd when explained about buyers). However, only a few brands seem to have a day called friends day to invite anyone who would like to see what they could offer. This professional and casual border for brand in terms of business has always been stuck in my mind when I was part of it. Are we the one who eventually purchase your products simply because I like yours as a fan? Or more than fan to keep track of what you do? I feel that connections with customer are less considered to be an important factor for them than those with buyers. Or probably my perspective would be wrong that their earning is mostly coming from buyers…… who knows.

 

Anyways, my fresh belated mumbling must have been little boring so that I would like to take myself a little bit serious from here. As I mentioned, the crush that I have for clothing did lead to this entity called “Eesett & Co”. Japanese brand from Tokyo (Currently they have a office at Tokyo), The guy behind this great entrepreneur names “Kiyoaki Nakazawa” I really like his concept toward his work as well as his creation that has a British-inspired products.

No matter how many years have our time passed by, aesthetic of character and attraction for something will never be lost”.

This concept above is his principle toward clothing. Mr. Nakazawa, the mastermind behind this brand, enough experience of let his existence talk itself from working at “Purveyors”, “Uehara” which is well-known for the imperial household bespoke tailors agency (closed recently) , and “Denman & Goddard” which is known for one of Savile Rows foremost Bespoke Tailors in U.K. as bespoke tailor. Plus he had a experience in working with luxurious company “Alexander Mcqueen” and currently his skill is ranked up with working with British brand “Grenfell” to create iconic and stylish clothing.

 

So assuming that he must be gained all those sartorial skill in these fields to the most so that he definitely is one of the best off-the-hook dude to know what it is all about clothing. I am lucky enough to be a part of fashion industry for a while to get to know what this world has to offer but these fields such as bespoke or tailoring, I am sad to say that I have no clue of them so far. That’s what I would like to get to know about him as well as to let you folks know out there that have experienced same as his years of experience or for those who have nothing but just a suit when it comes to think about his story. I’m no historian or detail fanatic but I really do agree with this concept and admire his career. May he let me to show his creation for my platform and hope not to give him any negative image.

 

Here are his pieces of art based on the 19 centuries tailoring technique and pattern with carefully selected material and re-constructed with his years of hard work.

 

Eesett and co 1

 

 

Eesett and co 1

 

Eesett and co 3

 

Eesett and co 4

 

Eesett and co 5

 

As far as I have experienced being in the fashion industries for only couple years, I think that for guys who love clothing especially Japanese, they are more focused on the little details such as intricate designs, tiny details that derived from history of clothing. Knowledge that they earned over more than 100 years through western culture have ranked up the definition of clothing exclusively here in Japan.

Before these couple years of rise in men’s fashion wear, Japan is always one of the best spot to find layers of creativity plus style was always fast-forwarded compared with other countries. Though some could make it out to the world of fashion and gained popularity as well as recognized, still our hidden talents and gems are all over Japan with a little hand of you folks outside of Japan.

I will keep writing not only about Japanese clothing or brand, but also the definition about Japanese creativity that I think it is necessary to let the world know. This year would be full of discovery for me as well and hopefully more Japanese are on the way to be discovered.

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色々な場所にて、各日本のブランドさんが最新ルックを披露していますね!どれもこれもADHD並みの注意が削がれてしまうほど素敵なものばかりで、つい時間を忘れて見てしまいます。が、やはり生で見てみたい、買う、着る前にぜひ現物を。。と思うのですが、なかなか一般人には見せてはくれないのが業界ならではのところではないかと笑。

通常だとバイヤーさんのみが入れる展示会。展示会だけではなく、商業目的であるトレードショーも普通は一般人の人は入れません。招待状があれば問題ないですが、アポなしでは入れません。(関係者を装い何度か侵入する事に成功はしましたが、ごめんさない笑)。コレクションやランウェイなどを見に行くのは、フロントローと呼ばれる言葉がある程ですから、さぞかしブランドさん側も著名な方々をブッキングするのに躍起になっているのではないかと思います笑。なのでそこまでこれらには興味はないですが、しかし生を買わないけど見てみたい。貧乏人には辛いが出来たてのホヤホヤを手で触って見てみたい。サイズとか確認したい。。。と思っているのは僕だけではないと思います。

話はさておき、今回は英国の文化が漂うブランドです。ディレクター(ディレクターって響きがかっこいいよね!)は日英ともにサヴィルロー、ビスポークなど伝統ある本意気の仕立て屋にて修行を積んだ猛者。まぁ、さぞかしこう哲学などを持ってらっしゃるのだろうなぁと妄想しつつ、調べてみるとやはりその通りでした。日本では宮内庁御用達の東京赤坂にある上原洋裁店(最近幕を降ろしてしまったそう。。)とイギリスにて200年以上も続く、老舗 Denman & Goddard (デンマン&ゴダード)にてテイラーリングの修行を積み、2013年に創立したブランドです。時間が経過しても、輝きを失わなう事のない趣のある服、19世紀のテーラーリングに基づき、クラシカルなデザイン、パターンとこだわりのディテールに適した素材を選定し、再構築を施す本物志向のメンズワードローブとのこと。(http://www.voice-public.com/voice/archives/3896より引用)

より詳しく調べさせて頂きますと何がカッコいいかって、クラシックな修行をしたのにもかかわらずアンダーグラウンド精神は忘れまいとパンクを思わせるディティールのシリーズを出し続けている所。スリーピースでビシッと決めていて、自宅へ帰るとセックスピストルズとか聴きながらお酒飲んでるのカッコよすぎるでしょ!ってな感じでまた勝手に想像してしまっておりましたが。笑

英語でも表記がされており(当然のごとく)日本のセレクトショップでもいくつか取り扱いがあるとのこと。ん〜ボンテージパンツは自分のテイストじゃないけど、写真のキャメル柄のコートはめちゃくちゃかっこいい。ディティールに関しての知識はそこまでなので触れはしませんが、これまた世界へ一度羽を伸ばしお家に帰って来たが、また世界へ向けて飛んで行って欲しいと思います。

 

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